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1.
A Dunaliella salina Extract Counteracts Skin Aging under Intense Solar Irradiation Thanks to Its Antiglycation and Anti-Inflammatory Properties.
Havas, F, Krispin, S, Cohen, M, Loing, E, Farge, M, Suere, T, Attia-Vigneau, J
Marine drugs. 2022;(2)
Abstract
Glycation, and the resulting buildup of advanced glycation end products (AGEs), is recognized as a key driver of cumulative skin damage and skin aging. Dunaliella salina is a halophile microalga adapted to intense solar radiation through the production of carotenoids. We present a natural supercritical CO2 extract of Dunaliella salina rich in the colorless carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene. The extract exhibited antiglycation and anti-inflammatory activities in ex vivo testing, showing strongly reduced formation of N-ε-carboxy-methyl-lysine with exposure to methylglyoxal, reduced AGE receptor levels, and significantly reduced interleukins 6 and 8. In a placebo-controlled clinical study under intense solar exposure, the extract significantly reduced the skin's glycation scores and its sensitivity to histamine; key skin aging parameters were also significantly improved vs. placebo, including wrinkle counts and spots. These results demonstrate the value of this Dunaliella salina extract, rich in colorless carotenoids, as an antiglycative, anti-inflammatory, and antiaging active ingredient, including in high-irradiation contexts.
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Efficacy of anti-inflammatory moisturizer vs hydrophilic cream in elderly patients with moderate to severe xerosis: A split site, triple-blinded, randomized, controlled trial.
Lueangarun, S, Soktepy, B, Tempark, T
Journal of cosmetic dermatology. 2020;(6):1432-1438
Abstract
BACKGROUND Xerosis is a common problem among the elderly, characterized by dry-scaling erythema, fissuring, or pruritus, which could be treated by anti-inflammatory moisturizers without side effects of steroids. AIMS We aimed to investigate the efficacy of anti-inflammatory moisturizer (MAS062D lotion) vs hydrophilic cream for the improvement of dry and barrier function skin in xerosis patients. METHODS A split site, triple-blinded, randomized, controlled trial was conducted in the elderly with moderate to severe xerosis, who received the 28-day twice daily application of MAS062D lotion and hydrophilic cream on the assigned shins. The evaluations on day 0, 14, and 28 were performed using clinical assessment, skin hydration by corneometer, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and biometric assessment. RESULTS There were 24 Thai elderly patients, of whom 87.5% were female (mean age = 58.04 years and mean xerosis severity scale (XSS) = 4.83). Both treatments revealed similar statistically significant improvement in XSS (P < .001). Interestingly, MAS062D lotion-treated side remarkably showed improvement of skin hydration compared with hydrophilic-treated side for 26.86 ± 7.94 vs 25.84 ± 5.1, 41.24 ± 6.92 vs 20.96 ± 6.8, 50.49 ± 8.2 vs 21.75 ± 8.29 at baseline, day 14, and 28, respectively (P-value < .001). Moreover, MAS062D lotion significantly yielded greater decrease in TEWL measurement and more erythema improvement than hydrophilic cream (P-value < .001). No serious adverse effects were observed with either treatment. CONCLUSION The MAS062D lotion could potentially be an efficacious treatment for improvement of xerosis in the elderly, which is also safe and refrains from steroid side effects.
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3.
Prospective Evaluation of Mango Fruit Intake on Facial Wrinkles and Erythema in Postmenopausal Women: A Randomized Clinical Pilot Study.
Fam, VW, Holt, RR, Keen, CL, Sivamani, RK, Hackman, RM
Nutrients. 2020;(11)
Abstract
Mangos are rich in β-carotene and other carotenoids, along with several phenolic acids that may provide oxidant defense and photoprotection to the skin. The objectives of this study are to investigate the effects of Ataulfo mango intake on the development of facial wrinkles and erythema. A randomized two-group parallel-arm study was conducted to assess 16 weeks of either 85 g or 250 g of mango intake in healthy postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin type II or III. Facial photographs were captured at weeks 0, 8, and 16, and wrinkles at the lateral canthi and erythema at the cheeks were quantified. Skin carotenoid values were measured with reflection spectroscopy. Deep wrinkle severity decreased significantly in the 85 g group after 8 (p = 0.007) and 16 (p = 0.03) weeks compared to baseline measures. In contrast, those in the 250 g group showed an increase after 16 weeks in average wrinkle severity (p = 0.049), average wrinkle length (p = 0.007), fine wrinkle severity (p = 0.02), and emerging wrinkle severity (p = 0.02). Erythema in the cheeks increased with 85 g of mango intake (p = 0.04). The intake of 85 g of mangos reduced wrinkles in fair-skinned postmenopausal women, while an intake of 250 g showed the opposite effect. Further studies feeding 85 g of mangos are warranted.
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4.
Preliminary randomized controlled trial of antiaging effects of l-ascorbic acid applied in combination with no-needle and microneedle mesotherapy.
Zasada, M, Markiewicz, A, Drożdż, Z, Mosińska, P, Erkiert-Polguj, A, Budzisz, E
Journal of cosmetic dermatology. 2019;(3):843-849
Abstract
BACKGROUND The epidermis is keratinized stratified squamous epithelium covered by hydro-lipid barrier. Vitamin C is a water-soluble antioxidant which protects skin from oxidative damage and rejuvenates photo-aged skin. There are different options of improving active substance penetration through the stratum corneum of the epidermis. One of them is noneedle mesotherapy which is a non-invasive rejuvenation technique involving electric pulses, electroporation, and ultrasounds. The use of these physicals factors results in deeper penetration of active ingredients. The other one is micro-needle mesotherapy which is nonsurgical therapy, which could cause the controlled inflammation. Micro channels are formed by needles during the skin puncture, that facilitate penetration of the active ingredients. AIMS The aim of the study was to assess the efficacy of L-ascorbic acid applied in combination with no-needle and micro-needle mesotherapy in anti-aging therapy. MATERIALS AND METHODS This study involved 17 healthy volunteers, 2.5 ml of serum containing 20% L-ascorbic acid with hydrate from strawberries was used topically in every of 4 treatments. No-needle mesotherapy was applied on the left half of the face while microneedle mesotherapy in combination with the same serum was performed on the right half of face. RESULTS In vivo studies confirmed the effectiveness of both methods. CONCLUSION The impact of active substance on skin firmness and elasticity as well as the degree of hydration and skin tone was more efficient after micro-needle mesotherapy.
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5.
Inhibitory effects of Sanguisorba officinalis root extract on HYBID (KIAA1199)-mediated hyaluronan degradation and skin wrinkling.
Yoshida, H, Yamazaki, K, Komiya, A, Aoki, M, Kasamatsu, S, Murata, T, Sayo, T, Cilek, MZ, Okada, Y, Takahashi, Y
International journal of cosmetic science. 2019;(1):12-20
Abstract
OBJECTIVES Hyaluronan (HA), an important constituent of extracellular matrix in the skin, has many biological activities such as hydration that contributes to firmness and bounciness of the skin. We have reported that reduction in HA in the papillary dermis and over-expression of HYBID (HYaluronan Binding protein Involved in hyaluronan Depolymerization, alias KIAA1199 or CEMIP), a key molecule for HA degradation in skin fibroblasts, are implicated in facial skin wrinkling in Japanese and Caucasian women. However, little or no information is available for substances which inhibit the HYBID-mediated HA degradation. METHODS Inhibition of Sanguisorba officinalis root extract and ziyuglycoside I, one of the components of Sanguisorba officinalis root extract, to the HYBID-mediated HA degradation was assessed by size-exclusion chromatography of HA depolymerized by stable transfectants of HYBID in HEK293 cells (HYBID/HEK293 cells) or normal human skin fibroblasts (Detroit 551 cells and NHDF-Ad cells). The HYBID mRNA and protein expression was examined by quantitative real-time PCR and immunoblotting in the skin fibroblasts treated with Sanguisorba officinalis root extract, and size distribution of newly produced HA was evaluated by preparing metabolically radiolabelled HA. A double-blind, randomized and placebo-controlled study was carried out in the 21 healthy Japanese women, who were topically treated with the formulation containing Sanguisorba officinalis root extract or the placebo on each side of the face including crow's foot area. RESULTS Sanguisorba officinalis root extract, but not ziyuglycoside I, abolished HYBID-mediated HA degradation by HYBID/HEK293 cells. Sanguisorba officinalis root extract also inhibited HYBID-mediated HA degradation in skin fibroblasts by down-regulating HYBID mRNA and protein expression. Although control untreated skin fibroblasts produced polydispersed HA, the cells treated with Sanguisorba officinalis root extract produced only high-molecular-weight HA. Treatment with Sanguisorba officinalis root extract-formulated lotion significantly improved skin elasticity, and reduced skin wrinkling scores at the outer eye corner compared with the placebo formulation. CONCLUSION Sanguisorba officinalis root extract showed an anti-HYBID-mediated HA degradation activity and anti-wrinkle activity on human facial skin, which is accompanied by the improvement in elasticity. Our study provides the possibility of a new strategy to inhibit HYBID-mediated HA degradation for anti-wrinkle care.
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6.
In situ antioxidant activity of a dermo-cosmetic product: A randomized controlled clinical study.
Ribet, V, Nobile, V, Rossi, AB
Experimental dermatology. 2019;(11):1219-1226
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Abstract
Ultraviolet light enhances the generation of reactive oxygen species that are responsible for skin photoageing. The aim of this randomized, vehicle- and active-controlled double-blind, intra-individual monocentric study was to evaluate in situ the antioxidant activity of a dermo-cosmetic product in photoaged skin. Twenty healthy volunteers had defined skin areas randomized to receive a topical product containing 3 antioxidants (pre-tocopheryl® , retinaldehyde and glycylglycine ole-amide), its vehicle and a positive antioxidant control cream. The products were applied daily for 30-day period. The skin areas were exposed to a controlled dose of UVA rays, and the skin oxidative status was evaluated 4 and 24 hours post-UVA exposure at D0 (basal value) and after 15 and 30 days of product application. Skin layers were collected by stripping, and antioxidant capacity was measured using the ferric reducing ability of a plasma assay. Lipid peroxidation (LPO) was assessed using the malonyldialdehyde test. The tested product significantly improved the skin antioxidant capacity after 15 and 30 days and significantly decreased the basal level of the skin LPO. The skin LPO level significantly decreased 4 and 24 hours after UVA exposure at 15 and 30 days. These findings were comparable to positive control treated sites and were significantly different from the vehicle and untreated sites. This minimally invasive methodology enabled a quantitative evaluation of potent antioxidant activity in situ in the stratum corneum reflecting real-life skin conditions and confirming the benefits of the topical application of a product containing 3 antioxidants in the prevention of UVA-induced oxidative damage.
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Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new 3-in-1 anti-aging topical night serum-in-oil containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate: 103 females treated from 28 to 84 days.
Goldberg, DJ, Robinson, DM, Granger, C
Journal of cosmetic dermatology. 2019;(3):806-814
Abstract
BACKGROUND Topical melatonin is a potent antioxidant, yet there have been few clinical studies on its anti-aging effects on the skin. OBJECTIVES To clinically assess the anti-aging efficacy and safety of a new 3-in-1 night facial serum (NFS) combining melatonin with bakuchiol, a novel retinol-like ingredient, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, in all skin types. METHODS Five clinical studies were performed, with a total of 103 subjects treated from 28 to 84 days. Under dermatologist supervision, a 3-month efficacy and safety study evaluated anti-aging properties by clinical scoring and instrumental evaluations. Two studies evaluated skin hydration properties for 12 hours after a single application of NFS. Two studies were performed in oily skin: a 1-month efficacy and safety study and a 1-month comedogenesis study. RESULTS After 12 weeks, clinical evaluation showed a statistically significant decrease in wrinkles (11%), an increase in skin firmness (8%), a reduction in redness (70%; P < 0.01 for all), and an overall improvement in skin quality and complexion. The reduction in wrinkles and the increase in skin firmness were also supported by instrumental evaluations (Dermatop and Dynaskin). Hydration levels increased significantly from 30 minutes until 12 hours and transepidermal water loss significantly decreased after 4H and 6H. Subjects favorably evaluated the efficacy and cosmetic properties of the serum, and it was well tolerated in all skin types including oily skin. CONCLUSIONS This 3-in-1 NFS showed significant clinical anti-aging effects when applied once daily and was well tolerated.
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Topical application and oral supplementation of peptides in the improvement of skin viscoelasticity and density.
Maia Campos, PMBG, Melo, MO, Siqueira César, FC
Journal of cosmetic dermatology. 2019;(6):1693-1699
Abstract
BACKGROUND The combination of oral supplementation and topical formulations to the improvement of skin conditions has been proposed as an innovative approach to obtain effective treatments. However, studies comparing the effectiveness of each type of treatments are still in lack. This way, the objective of this work was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of a dermocosmetic formulation with di- and tripeptides, as well the effects of an oral supplementation based on hydrolyzed collagen through biophysical and skin imaging techniques. METHODS Sixty healthy female subjects, aged between 40 and 50 years, were enrolled, being separated in 3 groups: topical formulation, oral supplementation, and oral placebo. The stratum corneum water content, skin viscoelasticity, dermis echogenicity, and skin pores parameters were evaluated. RESULTS The group with the topical formulation showed a significant increase in the stratum corneum water content and skin elasticity after 28-day period and also acted in the dermis echogenicity after 90 days with the formulation with peptides. The oral supplementation acted on skin elasticity and presented a more pronounced effect on dermis echogenicity, reducing skin pores after 90-day period. CONCLUSION The obtained results with oral supplementation and topical application of hydrolyzed proteins were considered complementary in the improvement of general skin conditions, acting in different mechanisms.
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A Double-Blind Randomized Pilot Study Evaluating the Safety and Efficacy of Topical MEP in the Facial Appearance Improvement of Estrogen Deficient Females.
Draelos, ZD
Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD. 2018;(11):1186 - 1189
Abstract
Facial skin aging is accelerated in postmenopausal females due to decreased collagen, reduced hydration, and loss of skin elasticity constituting the characteristics of estrogen deficient skin (EDS). The presence of estrogen receptors on dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes confirms the role of estrogen in skin health. This research examined the efficacy and tolerability of topical methyl estradiolpropanoate (MEP) as an anti-aging cosmeceutical with estrogen like cutaneous effects in postmenopausal women who had never taken hormone replacement therapy (HRT). MEP was applied to the face twice daily for 14 weeks but was metabolized in the skin to an inactive compound avoiding estrogen side effects, as demonstrated by the safety study. The efficacy study investigator noted MEP induced statistically significant improvement from baseline at week 14 in dryness (P<0.001), laxity (P=0.001), atrophy (P=0.003), and dullness (P<0.001) as compared to vehicle. Four of nine subjects in the biopsy sub study demonstrated an increase in fibroblasts estrogen receptor staining. The novel concept of a safe and efficacious soft estrogen facial cosmeceutical may provide appearance benefits for postmenopausal women.
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10.
Protective effects of fermented honeybush (Cyclopia intermedia) extract (HU-018) against skin aging: a randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled study.
Choi, SY, Hong, JY, Ko, EJ, Kim, BJ, Hong, SW, Lim, MH, Yeon, SH, Son, RH
Journal of cosmetic and laser therapy : official publication of the European Society for Laser Dermatology. 2018;(5):313-318
Abstract
BACKGROUND Oxidative stress and photodamage resulting from ultraviolet radiation exposure play key roles in skin aging. Fermented Cyclopia intermedia, which is used to brew honeybush tea, exerts antioxidant and anti-wrinkle effects by inhibiting reactive oxygen species production and downregulating matrix metalloproteinase activity. OBJECTIVES This randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of fermented honeybush (Cyclopia intermedia) extract (HU-018) for skin rejuvenation. METHODS 120 Korean subjects with crow's feet wrinkles were randomized to receive either low-dose extract (400 mg/day), high-dose extract (800 mg/day), or placebo (negative control, only dextran) for 12 weeks. Wrinkles were evaluated using JANUS® and PRIMO pico®. Skin elasticity, hydration and transepidermal water loss were measured. RESULTS Global skin wrinkle grade was significantly improved in both low-dose and high-dose groups compared to placebo group, as well as for skin hydration and elasticity. Both the low- and high-dose groups showed significantly decreased TEWL compared to the placebo group. There were no adverse effects during the entire study period. CONCLUSION Our data indicate that HU-018 is effective for improving skin wrinkles, elasticity, and hydration. Therefore, daily supplementation with fermented honeybush could be helpful for protecting against skin aging.